Italian truffles are a well-known delicacy worldwide. With their
pungent, almost sulphurous and sharp flavour, they are an acquired taste. Not
every person can develop an affinity to them…unlike chocolates! These are found
under the ground as opposed to other mushrooms that grow over ground and
require special expertise for retrieval. They come in the white as well as the black variants. The white ones are the more pricier ones and are extremely delicate in their flavour.
Having been exposed to a world of food and travel shows exploring
Italy, I considered it an absolute sin to miss out on any truffle exploration
during my debut visit to Italy.
I started planning for my truffle expedition about a month before I
was scheduled to travel to Florence. Scouring through websites of truffle
hunters, online reviews, discussion forums – I shortlisted one such hunter –
Giulio and got it touch with him. A few email exchanges and the tour was
finalised. He was good enough to offer us a good discount as well.
A one view chart on various truffles found in Italy |
Giulio – The Truffle Hunter, as so he is famously called resides in a
small town on the outskirts of Florence. It is pretty easy to get there by bus,
which takes barely a half hour. We had co-ordinated with him prior to leaving
Florence and he was there at the other end to receive us. He comes across as a
person extremely passionate about two things, first - truffles and second - his
dog, Edna who is the principal character in the picture of truffle hunting with
Gulio.
The Lovely Truffle hunting dog - EDNA |
As the history of truffle hunting goes, pigs were traditionally trained
and used by truffle hunters owing to their keen sense of smell for these smelly
fungi. However, it turns out, the pigs were quite messy at their job and used
to leave the woods in shambles when hunting. Norms were changed and dogs
started featuring as truffle hunting animals. They could be better trained and
were considerably well behaved. Edna is once such special dog. In fact, we were
told that Truffle hunting trained dogs could almost be valued at anything
between $20,000 – &30,000. Quite a price for a dog but then again, the
price of a single truffle are such that the trained dogs would make quite a
fruitful investment. Another fascinating fact about truffle hunting is that you
need to be licensed to hunt and sell truffles.
Giulio accompanied us to a small hill where we were to understand more about
these delicacies and hunt for them with Edna. Giulio left Edna to follow her
instincts and her sense of smell. She wandered off in the woods with the rest
of us following her slowly. She wasn’t to be disturbed. It wasn’t long before
she stopped at a place covered with moss and started a digging movement.
Swiftly, we saw Giulio pull her away from that spot and start digging with his
spade. He dug out a small black charcoal like thing from the ground and behold
– was the first ever Truffle hunted by us. He explained that if he had let Edna
dig it out, she would have eaten it up as apparently, dogs and pigs like
Truffles. Edna found 5 more truffles in succession and also ate up one of them
in the process. Well, she did deserve the treat. After all, she did help us
find the truffles.
After a couple of hours in the woods and understanding a bit more of
the flora in the woods, we headed back to Gulio’s place where we were taught
the intricacies of cleaning, storing and selling truffles. It may seem like a
hobby to some but truffles is serious business. There are quite a few varieties
and depending on the season, climate and location, these are found in the
region. The inner veins when the truffles are sectioned help their
identification. Gulio’s knowledge was like a Science lesson in truffles.
Lovely lunch of truffles and wine |
Warm bread with shaved truffles |
It was time for us to bid goodbye to Giulio, his wife, Edna and a cat that he had rescued. As a parting present, we were handed two small truffles as takeaway gifts, something that we were absolutely delighted about.
While I am not sure when will I get to try my food experiments on
truffles again (as they aren’t that commonly available in India), I do hope to
taste them again soon maybe on my future travels.
Truffle infused honey - simply delightful |
Truly, travel is one way of best ways of gaining a deep-rooted understanding of different cultures round the world.