Kite hunting and Midnight cravings: Part 1

  

The first instalment of my 2 part series on ‘The Kite Season’.

Ever experienced utter chaos? Having no idea of what is happening around, losing your way, finding it difficult to understand what the hype is all about – but in spite of all of the confusion, enjoying every moment of it. These were the exact feelings I experienced during my visit to “The Kite Market”, popularly known as “Kangshaal” in Gujarati – and only in Ahmedabad.

Every year, a night before 14^th January – the day celebrating “Uttarayan” or the Kite festival, massive markets are organized that sell only kites and everything related to kites. Kites in all shapes and sizes – ranging from small 1-inch baby kites to massive 5 footer ones are sold here. Of course, you cannot have kites without the glass powder coated “Manja” or “Phirkis”. Different hues, sizes of the manjas are available in the market for sale here and believe me, even small kids – hardly 5 year old ones know their kites and their manjas. It is quite embarrassing for a non-kite flyer like me facing these tiny people telling you which manjas are the best and the finer nuances of flying a kite.

Rows of Phirki's / Kite Manja

Transporting these kites is another story all together. There is barely any space to breathe in the market – even at midnight, leave alone finding space to walk. The kites are held high above the head and people walk through the crowds trying to weave their way across. It’s a sight. Sounds of whistles, blow-horns, people bargaining on the prices of the kites, vendors screaming the prices for the kites and accessories – its utter chaos. But in the midst of all the chaos – you see a reason to enjoy. It’s a common thread binding all the people in the market - kites. There is no social strata, no caste or religion that matters here. Everyone’s the same and they have one common aim – “Kites”.

Now as confessed, I am no kite-flyer but one part of the market experience that most interests me  - apart from spending time with all the relatives in Gujarat – is the love of my life “ Food”.

Visiting the kite market is a culinary experience by itself. Street food is found in abundance. Food you would probably have never even thought as being possible finds its way here and believe me or not – sells like hotcakes.

My last visit to the kite market in kite market in Ahmedabad left me speechless in terms of the kind of dishes that can be created. The food is all really simple made using day-to-day, easily accessed ingredients. Ingredients that can be picked up from the next-door food store but when the innovation takes over – it’s all chaos. The kind of chaos that although is maddening, you somehow end up enjoying every part of it.

Accompanied by relatives in Ahmedabad after the kite hunt, we ended up going to the Manekchowk food market located next to the kite market. There were brightly lit up stalls selling delicious chaat dishes like “Bhel” and “Sev puri” and the more warmed up versions of “Potato tikkies”. Another stall selling piping hot tea found its space there as well.

Manek Chowk market

What caught my attention, however, was the array of stalls creating and selling – sandwiches and pizzas. Now, you would probably question, what’s different about that? Every place has a sandwich and pizza place. True, but not every place has a “Chocolate sandwich” or a “ Chocolate pizza”. Yup, you read it right…it’s all chocolate!!

That’s a crazy combination you would think - Exactly as I did. Whoever has a chocolate sandwich?? But believe me, this was one dish that was raking in the cash. Never in my life have I seen a demand for such as weird concoction but I guess, that’s the way innovation works.

Am gonna share the recipe I picked up after having eaten the Chocolate sandwich. Much as I would like to shy away, I do admit – it wasn’t bad. In fact, quite interesting. Not many ingredients in there but very innovative piece of work.

 

Bread – 2 slices

Butter – loads

Milk chocolate (melted) or nutella

Weird extra ingredient – Shredded processed cheese

Smear the bread slices with butter on both sides. Layer one slice with melted chocolate and generously top with the shredded cheese. I think they even added some sandwich spice on top of it (really don’t remember, but give it a try). Cover with another bread slice and enjoy!

Note: These can even be toasted.

I shied away from the chocolate pizza because I guess the sandwich was as far as I could venture with my culinary adventure here. It was a crazy but a thoroughly enjoyable experience. 

Oh, by the way, there were pineapple based sandwiches and pizzas we well. Might brave the crowds to try them next year again.

Tea in a Graveyard, anyone??

Weird title for an article, isn't it? 

Well, but a fact..Welcome to this discreet, almost "taken for granted" eatery in Ahmedabad, famously known to everyone in the city as "Lucky tea house".

Quietly situated in the central area of Ahmedabad, this tea house is a special one and what makes it special is its location. This tea store is based in a graveyard..

The origins and beginnings remain unknown but talking to the owners, you realise its historical roots have been around for many years. 

On one of my early visits this year to Ahmedabad, during the kite flying festival, we happened to visit the Kite market..[that is another exploration altogether and will be covered in my next blog article]..but at 12.00 in the night, while returning back to our hotel, the relatives accompanying us asked if we were up for a cup of tea. Being on a holiday, of course it didn't matter..No schedules to bother about or any early morning alarms to wake up to. 

So, off we were taken- to the Lucky tea house.

Of course, we were informed before we ventured into the hotel that it was originally a graveyard. 

It was an eerie experience..being in a graveyard at 12 in the night and actually having a cup of tea there..

Mainly an open area cafe, the tables were interspersed between tombs laid out in between. Teas and bun muska's [ Soft bread with butter] were ordered. 

I sat back looking around the place, trying to understand how could a tea stall actually be set up on a graveyard..Weren't there religious sentiments involved ?? What about food regulations ?? And could people actually accept enjoying a cup of tea in a  place like a graveyard??

Whatever your doubts, fact remains that "Lucky tea house" is frequented by everyone - irrelevant of their age, caste, gender, occupation, social strata etc. 

Its a decent place [ if you can overcome your reservations about having tea amidst tombs laid out]. The tea is served piping hot and the bun muska come with a choice of butter - with or without jam. 

Its actually a sight watching the young waiters bring out the food. Tea cups and saucers are stacked one above the other with almost 6 teacups being brought out at a time by each person. The bun muska is a similar sight with the plates piled onto 1 another and almost 10 servings being brought out at a time. 

The place runs full - day or night..In fact, when we were done with our tea at about 12.30 and leaving the place, the cafe actually started filling up again with more midnight revealers craving for their shot of energy. 

The tradition will continue,I am sure for many more years to come and the Tea house will continue to stay where it is serving more customers daily, but it would be worth passing on this story to others around the world and to make them aware of this small place that has such a strange arrangement and yet, is a favourite around. 

Its interesting to note the kind of places existent in our vicinity, that almost go unnoticed mainly because  that are just taken for granted as being there. Their history, their origins and the sentiments that go along with the set up are sometimes just ignored. 

So, reach out..Go to the next door Chaiwala or the small South Indian eatery next to your house or the humble Irani restaurant in your area ..Talk to the people, understand their lives, their beginnings, their emotional attachments to the place and I am sure you will come out of the experience understanding a bit more of why the place exists in the first place and why things are as they are. 

For the love of Vada Pav's..

Food is my first love. It is like a soul connection I have. Anything remotely related to food, be it eating, creation, designing, books etc. will find its way in my world.

I have been intrigued by the concept of food from the time I was a little kid. Both my parents are great cooks and I seem to have inherited their passion and innovativeness in cooking. My bookshelf is filled with books on various topics related to the culinary art and science ranging from cooking, to designing to scientific experiments in cooking. [My latest addition is the Molecular Gastronomy book by Heston Blumental].

Considering my love for food, I thought it apt to write my first blog addition related to the topic and specifically, one of my favorite dish “The Vada pav”.

Anyone living in Bombay would definitely be a fan of this simple snack. For the others unaware of this dish, its simply a bread coupled with a fried potato patty.

In simple terms, it is better known as the Indian or rather as I put it, the “ Mumbai” burger.

Of course, the composition isn’t that simple. There are the various additions ranging from coriander chutney or the fierce red chilli and garlic chutney or the tangy tamarind chutney. Every area, vendor will have his own version.

Don’t go looking for vadapav’s in swanky, high - end places. The best of the lot are available from street sellers who seem to have their own twists to making the vada [The potato patty], which even after a zillion attempts to replicate in your kitchen are pointless. 

On the price front, it is one of the cheapest foods available. With prices as low as Rs. 6 to 7 per Vada pav [Approx USD 15 cents], a simple man can easily afford 2 to 3 of this delicious snack and manage his one time meal in a city wherein, prices for all commodities are sky rocketing.

Every area in Bombay has a vada pav seller. But there are a few which stand out amongst the lot. I am sure many of the readers will have their own favorites and are welcome to contribute their findings, but here are my favorites in the city –

1.     1. Amulakh Amichand School [Matunga]:

The love for vada pav’s originated in my school. The canteen here serves the best vada pav’s till date along with spicy red garlic chutney. I always make it a point to get a couple of these when I get a chance of visiting the school. Plus the teachers feel happy as well when past students visit.

2. Prakash Hotel [At Shivaji Park, Next to Shiv Sena Bhavan]

A small typical Maharashtrian restaurant, been around for more than 40 years, it has been our recent discovery. This place serves only the vada with a finger licking peanut and coconut chutney. Of course, it is impossible to find this place without people at any time of the day, it is much easier to order a take away. The service is pretty quick and expect the delivery of your take away within 10- 15 minutes. Not to be missed here along with the Vada are the Misal, Sabudana vada, kothambir wadi and other delicacies.

2.     Near Standard Chartered bank, [At Fountain]:

The best of the lot, the vendor is a small street seller. The batch’s is freshly made all the time. The vada pav is accompanied with a fiery red chilli garlic chutney and green chilies. Of course, you would start gasping for water after one bite of the chutney sprinkled vada pav, but that is the fun part of it.  Falling en route from work to home, we usually stop by this seller in the evenings for a snack. Being regulars at this place, the person has become friendly and he always makes sure we get a piping hot batch of the vadas which are to die for.

There are a few others explored in Bombay, but the above 3 top my list in Bombay. The hunt is till on.

Just the other day, I read about a place that serves variants of vada pav with sauces like mint and mayo, schezuan sauce etc. I am waiting to get my hands on these are write up my views.

In other cities around Bombay, Lonavala has the best vada pav maker of all of the above. Next to A 1 Chikki and opposite Avion hotel, there is a small store managed by a Rajasthani person, which makes hot vada pavs, samosas and dal vada’s. But the best part here is the spicy chutney that the person makes fresh every morning. It is not the usual garlic chutney served. The chutney is made from spicy green chilies and ginger. Being regulars at this place, the storeowner has become good friends with us and shared with us the recipe of the chutney. We do make it at home, but of course, nothing can beat the chutney made by this guy. All attempts to make him open a shop in Bombay have been in vain.

Moving onto another city – Ahmedabad. I have been to one eatery in this city located in an area called “Vijay Char rasta” which serves a completely different take on the vada pav. The pav’s are smothered in butter and garlic chutney and roasted on a griddle. The vada is then stuffed and passed on to the customer. The flavor profile is awesome with the buttery flavor mingling with the spicy garlic and the potato mixture.  They consider this a rich man’s vada pav. There is also a variant in this eatery called the “ Bombay vada pav”. On inquiring the difference, I was told that this was without any butter – just a plaing vada and pav. Well, so much for the origin of the vada pav.

All areas have their own takes of this simple snack. In basic terms, it is nothing but a bread with a potato patty, but I guess “ simple can be really complex” at times, with so many different variants and flavors possible.

It is possible to make this dish at home without any effort but again, the fun lies in buying it from a street corner and tucking it in along with a bottle of cold drink in the company of a few good friends.

The hunt of more vada pav innovation continues…